Don’t Get Draped in Confusion: Understanding Fabric Weight for Sewing Success

Have you ever fallen in love with a beautiful fabric, only to find it drapes completely differently than you envisioned in your finished garment? Or maybe you’ve struggled to sew with a fabric that feels flimsy and tears easily? The culprit behind both these scenarios could be fabric weight.

Fear not, fellow sewists! Understanding fabric weight is a key element to choosing the perfect option for your project. Today we’re going to unravel the mystery of fabric weight, and help you confidently navigate the aisles (or websites) for your perfect fabric to create garments that drape, fit, and function beautifully.

So, the big question is…what is fabric weight?

Fabric weight refers to the density or thickness of a material. It’s typically measured in two ways: grams per square meter (gsm) or ounces per square yard (oz/yd²). The higher the number, the heavier the fabric.

Here’s a general breakdown of fabric weight categories:

• Lightweight (2-4 oz/yd² or up to 150 gsm): Perfect for flowy dresses, blouses, and summer garments. Think chiffon, voile, and lawn fabrics.
• Medium-weight (4-8 oz/yd² or 150-300 gsm): A versatile option for dresses, shirts, pants, and skirts. Cotton poplin, chambray, and linen fall into this category.
• Heavyweight (8-14 oz/yd² or 300-500 gsm): Ideal for outerwear, jackets, structured garments, and upholstery. Denim, canvas, and twill fabrics are good examples.

Now your next question might be…why does fabric weight matter?

• Drape:  How do you want your garment to lay on you or your model? As a general rule lighter fabrics drape more fluidly, creating flowing silhouettes. Heavier fabrics provide more structure and hold their shape better.  *Keep in mind, this isn’t always the case, but a general rule for most fabrics. For example, Organza is very lightweight, but does not offer much drape or flow.
• Durability: How strong does your piece need to be? Heavier fabrics tend to be more durable and withstand wear and tear better, making them ideal for garments that see a lot of use, for example coats and pants.  If your garment needs to withstand a lot of wear or keep you warm in the winter, aim for a heavier fabric to avoid the need for constant repairs.
• Opacity: Is the piece you’re creating meant to allow light to pass through more easily, or do you want to make sure you’re covering all of your assets (quite literally)? Lighter fabrics are often more sheer, requiring lining if you want to avoid an opaque look. Remember that adding a lining can change the drape of your lightweight fabric so this is something you need to consider when designing your piece.

Sewing Ease: Lighter fabrics can be trickier to sew due to their tendency to slip and slide, this can be especially true when working with silk or some rayons.  Heavier fabrics offer more stability when sewing. Be sure to take into consideration your sewing skills to help you determine if you’re ready to start working with lighter fabrics, or if you need to stick to heavier fabrics as you continue to practice and hone your sewing skills.

How Fabric Weight Influences Sewing Techniques

Depending on your fabric weight, you need to do the following steps to ensure a successful outcome of your project:

1. Choose the right needle: Heavier fabrics need sturdier needles (download our free needle guide for additional assistance) often labeled as denim or leather needles. These needles can penetrate thick materials without breaking.
2. Adjust thread type: Thicker threads are best matched with heavy fabrics to ensure strong seams. 
3. Change machine settings: Increase stitch length when working with heavy fabrics to prevent needle breakage and skipped stitches.
4. Seam finishes matter: Heavyweight materials enjoy reinforced seams like flat-felled for durability and a clean finish.  Some lightweight/sheer fabrics are best with French seams or Hong Kong seam finishes for a professional look without adding weight. 
5. Pressing techniques vary: Use more heat and steam when pressing heavier fabrics to set seams flat.  Delicate, lightweight materials need gentler heat to avoid damage. Take a look at my previous blog post on pressing techniques to learn more about clappers and press cloth. 
6. Hold fabric securely: Use more pins or clips to hold heavy fabric in place while sewing. Thinner fabrics may need careful handling to keep them from slipping out of position.

Be mindful of fit and drape: Heavier fabrics will hang differently than lighter ones, affecting the fit and silhouette of garments. Adjust your sewing patterns accordingly for the best outcome for your desired piece.

It’s Time to Choose the Right Fabric Weight for Your Project

Now that you understand the basics of fabric weight, how do you choose the right one for your project? Here are some of my tried and tested tips to make it as simple as possible for you:

1. Check Your Pattern Recommendations: Most sewing patterns will recommend specific fabric weights for optimal results. Pay attention to these suggestions!  After a designer has created a garment and tested multiple times they have the best recommendations. I’m all for trying to make each piece your own, but if you try to stray too far from the suggestions of the original design, you may end up doing yourself a disservice. These designers are professionals and know what they are talking about, listen to them!
2. Consider the Garment Type: Think about the function and style of the garment you’re making. A flowing maxi dress requires a lightweight fabric, while a winter coat needs something heavier. Envision yourself wearing the piece. What season are you wearing it in? What activities are you doing while wearing it? Select fabrics that you yourself would wear in those specific scenarios.

Stitching it All Together (see what I did there?)

Now that you’ve completed this crash course on fabric weight, you should feel well-equipped to conquer any sewing project! 

Remember, fabric weight isn’t just about numbers – it’s about achieving the perfect drape, fit, and function for your garment. So, explore different fabrics, experiment with confidence, and never stop trying new things.

The two biggest takeaways from this post should be:

1. Think about the garment you’re making. How does it look, how does it feel, how should it make you feel when you’re wearing it? This can help initially guide you towards a fabric type that will fit your basic needs.
2. Research your fabric options. Look at the advice given on your sewing pattern and explore fabrics that match that specific project’s needs. Choosing the perfect fabric for your project involves many factors to consider when it comes to fabric weight. When in doubt, trust the reviews from others who have been there before you. You’re not in this alone!

With a little planning and this knowledge in your sewing arsenal, you’ll be well on your way to selecting the perfect fabric weight for your next project, ensuring a garment that looks stunning and functions exactly how you envisioned it would.

Cheers to your next masterpiece!